Koki Enomoto finds inspiration in the unlikeliest of places. Earlier this year, while out for a run, the designer stopped to catch his breath and looked up to see a piece of gray netting hanging from an overpass, fluttering delicately in the wind. “I felt like I was seeing something invisible,” said Enomoto during a…
Like many millennials who came of age around the time of the global financial crisis, Keisuke Yoshida grew up with an idea of fashion that has all but disappeared. Enamored by the glamor of the department store he would walk past on his way to school—the sharp-elbowed mannequins in the window wearing Donna Karan or…
“We’re really going back to our roots.” It’s a phrase we hear often in fashion, but it holds no cliché when uttered by Yoon Ahn. Since the designer and her partner Verbal reacquired ownership of Ambush in April last year, the duo has shifted the brand’s production back to Japan to have tighter control of…
“Past, Present, Future”—that is how Serhat Işık described the collection he and Benjamin A. Huseby designed for their label, GmbH, to mark its 10th anniversary. While it might sound like an overused term to describe a collection, the phrase perfectly encapsulates their current work. After all, the winners of this year’s FCG x Vogue Germany…
Since Zane Li’s last men’s review, his New York label, Lii, received the Fashion Trust US Prize in the ready-to-wear category and was named a finalist for both the LVMH Prize and the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, taking place on September 4 and October 26, respectively. Pretty impressive for a brand that’s not even three years…
Just as people are left- or right-handed, some brands tend more toward fall, others to spring. Arnar Már Jónsson and Luke Stevens’s Ranra tends to the former. “Primarily our focus is always on outerwear and dressing for colder climates,” observed Stevens, “and we really wanted to strip all of that back this season and really…
It’s rare that every look in a show is different from each other, yet the whole thing holds together, captivating an audience. Michael Rider did that with his first standalone Celine menswear collection, a fresh-feeling composite of desirable clothes and individual character mixed together like an in-house jam session. “We try it all on, we…
Hed Mayner has a coping mechanism for hard times, even when record-breaking heat waves meld into a never-ending thrum of bad news. “I’m not into that kind of world, I’m living in my own,” the designer said backstage in the gilded, chandeliered, and mercifully air-conditioned Cercle des Armées. Not that it’s a matter of willful…
Europe’s heatpocalypse, which has people shedding, rather than donning clothes, works in favor of Lazoschmidl’s revealing spring collection, focused on the brand’s best-selling category, undies (Y-fronts and Speedos). Even if the temperatures had been more mild, Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidl approached this season with a bit of a “You wanna piece of me?” attitude….
Lemaire shows prove that it’s possible to conjure a palpable atmosphere sans spectacle, that a minimalist runway and a soundtrack composed of sounds as much as music can feel transporting. Around mid-way through the collection, an extract of rainfall played while giant fans sent a breeze through a soaring, concrete hall within the Opera Bastille….
